The friendly attitude was a little surprising considering the history of Croatia. This area of the world has changed owners no less than 15 times in the past 2000 years. Romans, Mongols, Austrians, Venetians, Napoleon and the French, the Turks, the Brits, the Slavs, and loads of Pirates have all called Croatia home or tried to make it their home at one time or another.
That history makes Croatia a very special place with a complex culture. Split, Dubrovnik, Korchula Town and the island of Vis were the locations I visited over the 10 days I was here, and all of the locations were truly amazing. The architecture and the lay out of the cities were very interesting, especially when you think that the main square in Split was a Roman Palace built 1700 years ago!!
Dubrovnik was the center of trade and shipbuilding in the 13th and 14th centuries. There were over 500 ocean going cargo and war ships sailing the seas of Europe in those days so the citizens of Dubrovnik had it good. Good enough that they decided to completely wall the city so they could keep it that way. This gives Dubrovnik its true charm. It also makes it one of the most visited cities in Southern Europe. After 12 Noon, the crowds on the streets and alleys of the ancient city remind me of walking through Disneyland, or the Venetian in Vegas. Oh boy do I hate crowds. I left after 15 minutes.
The key to enjoying Dubrovnik is to get there early before the dozens of tour buses arrive. The walls of the city are open to explore from 8 AM. I was in the city at 7:55 and had the entire town to myself. WOW. What a difference. I sat on the wall having my juice and a ham and cheese sandwich taking in the view and wondering what it must have been like 600 years ago.
The theme for pictures of Croatia soon became apparent in all of the laundry hanging from the windows. Apparently dryers don’t exist in Croatia, so everyone hangs the laundry out to dry! Check the pics, I want to come back as a sheet in a 3rd story window in Korchula. What a view…and man the breeze must feel good.
The reason for Dubrovnik being the ship building capital of the world is because of its location in the Adriatic. Great wind, crystal clear water, and miles of forest inland. The way to see Croatia is by sailboat. Thousands of boats line the marinas, and in summer they are all chartered by folk from all over the world. Next time.
From Dubrovnik I rented a car and drove north to the island of Korchula, taking the ferry from Orebic(h). Beautiful drive through the wine country dotted with roman ruins. Korchula is a mini Dubrovnik and was a great spot to watch the Croatia v Brazil game. The lack of soccer enthusiasm that I noticed when I arrived quickly turned into mayhem as fans lit flares and waved huge flags from balconies in the town center. 1-0 loss to Brazil was nothing to be embarrassed about so the town went mad. Lots of fun.
From Korchula, I drove to Mostar, Bosnia-Herzegovina. What a difference 100 KM makes. I will post a separate story re Bosnia, but wow did this city get beat up.
After a quick get away from Bosnia, I arrived in Split to take the 1.5 hour high speed ferry to the island of Vis. Arrived 10 PM. Awoke to an amazing sight. Vis is about 10 miles long by 2 miles wide. The highest point is 600 meters, and the island is dotted with emerald green bays and white rock beaches. Vis is the gem of Croatia. Nothing trendy, nothing of high fashion, no pomp, and NO CROWDS. One road, no traffic and two towns of about 6000 people each on each end of the island.
Rented a scooter and was pretty much alone on the roads. Cruising with warm breeze, stopping and hiking down to deserted coves and bays, swimming in clear blue water, chatting with the vineyard owners and sitting in umbrella covered cafes watching the fishermen bring in specials for the dinner menus is how I spent three days on Vis. Watched every world cup match and took naps in between.
I could be working……
Oh yeah, and spent an hour at the police station negotiating down a ticket for going the wrong way down a one way street. The one road in Kut town on Vis apparently splits in two at one point, and its one way for about 300 yards. The 300 yard strip just happens to pass directly in front of the ONLY police station on the island. The guy wanted to charge me $400USD!!! Got off only paying $100, but what a scam….oh well, the police station in Kut, Island of Vis, Dalmatia region, Croatia is a shithole, so don’t bother stopping here.
My last night was spent in the town square under the 15th century church at the café where they have TWO antique Singer sowing tables. They are well over EIGHTY YEARS OLD!!! Prize possessions of the owner. Just a funny site in a town with so much history.
All of the kids turned out to watch the football, and after the game, a soccerball came out, and it was boys versus the girls in the square. The 11 and 12 year olds were bullying the girls, so I joined the girls team, and we kicked ass. Funny, but a bad habit, that all of the boys would drop to the ground and scream in pain at the smallest contact. European football….
It was a thrill to have one 6 year old on my shoulders and TEN little boys and girls take me through the town pointing out their school, the town cinema (a white wall built in the ruins of the roman amphitheatre), the town hall, and the one alley way that had a light with a motion sensor. They all jumped in and out screaming with delight as the light went on and off!
When I got to the marina with kids in tow, I passed a 125 foot three deck yacht that easily costs $5M. Ten staff manned the decks serving one man and his wife. I walked past them, and could feel the attitude from them and the staff. It was as if they told me to get out of their way so they can board their expensive boat.
I could be working to make millions so I can buy expensive toys, but then I could also be playing and laughing with the local kids of a beautiful island town with not a care in the world.
It was at that moment that I knew I have made the right decision to take time off.
Croatia was a wonderful experience. The history, the water, the towns and the people all make this a perfect spot to chill out.
Dazvedanja my friends!