Cusco is a top town, I wish I could have spent more time there. Amazing churches, museums and great restaurants. Cusco was pretty much destroyed by Pizzarro and his Spanish army in the mid 1500’s and the buildings here now were built on the original Inca foundations, which tended to be much stronger than anything the Spanish could put up.
Amusing example of the Spanish influence was a painting in the museum that depicted the last supper. All of the guests look like Indians, and they are dining on Guinea Pig!
I planned my trip to Peru fairly last minute, so I was unable to secure one of the only 500 daily spots for hikers on the traditional Inca Trail. Not to worry, the Incas built 25,000 MILES OF TRAILS!
I only had 6 nights in the Andes so I bolted early the next morning with Miguel, my guide who would push me up to a pass on the original Inca Trail over 15,000 feet. We were to walk 8 hours a day for 3 days camping along the way.
It was me, Miguel, two horses, a mule, a cook, a horseman, and a porter. Total cost for 4 days: $400US. Not bad. All meals and gear included. The scenery was free.
We started day 1 at 9,400 feet and started a slow climb up through a long river valley. Amazing scenery, loads of fauna; orchids, cactus, coca, agave, mint, peppermint and many other local exotic plants, some used for pretty interesting purposes.
There was not a soul in sight, and as I spoke to Miguel, I knew that I was on a tour that would be more spectacular than the traditional Inca Trail, would be completely deserted of other hikers, would go higher, and would not have the 1,200 steps straight up at the end!
We camped at 12,900 feet in the yard of a school for the local kids of farming families that lived in the area. It looked like it had not been used in years. The local Quechuans (Ket-chu-an) spent most of their time tending to their small farms and their livestock. School was not a daily activity for the kids.
Day one saw a rise of 3,500 feet over 5 miles, in 7 hours. Slow going and pretty steep in places. Coming out of the tent for dinner, the cold smacked me in the face. It was about 20 degrees F. I was not prepared, and had on every piece of clothing I brought, and looked like an idiot. I wish I could have stayed out longer to see the stars as they were AMAZING, and the constellations visible in the southern hemisphere look upside down!
Day two was a 6:30 start and was a steep rise to the pass. We covered the 2,000 feet in about 3 hours. Incredible scene. Check the photos. The echo from me yelling ‘I could be working!’ was a pretty special effect as well. We chilled on the pass for half an hour, and then it was all down hill from there, again along the side of a steep valley. Miguel and I passed the time by rolling dried cow pies for distance. The steep slopes made those suckers run and run and run!
We camped again at about 12,900 on the edge of a point that shot out from one side of the high valley wall. Straight down about 2500 feet to the valley floor. The view from my tent across the valley to the peaks that rose to over 18,000 feet was pretty nice I must say. Chilly night again. Socks on hands and two hats, fashion boy.
Day 3 was a slightly slower start and we broke camp around 8 AM for the 8 hour walk back down to 8,500 feet. We reached a point where two valleys met, and there was a nice set of ruins that acted as a control point for foot traffic coming from Cusco to the south, and from the jungle to the south east, headed to Macchu Picchu. Even 600 years ago all guests had to register to get into the holy city.
We hooked up with the traditional Inca trail and walked in the opposite direction as the masses for about 2 hours. Loads of people. Locals, hikers from all around the world decked out in their best gear, porters, horses, mules, etc. It was a scene. I am very glad now that I did not walk that trail as I understand that the camp sites hold up to two hundred tents, so the feeling of having the mountain to your self is not present on those hikes. And then there are the steps…..
The original trails were all paved with stone, and were 20 feet wide in some places. An amazing feat when you think that it was built 500 years ago with no horses or wheels.
On the last night of camping we were finally low enough to have some warmth, and I could take a hot shower, oh boy did that feel good!
Each day we ate well. Smoked trout, vegetable soup, fresh bread, hot coffee, corn pancakes with wild berry jam and honey…YUMMY! The food was delicious, but something just did not agree with me, making me think that if the Spanish did not wipe out the Inca, my pungent flatulence certainly would have…..good thing you were not hiking behind me!
The hike was amazing. Cold, long, hard and COLD. But I would do it again in a heart beat just to see the smiles of the local kids, the stars at night and the peaks of the Andes stretching on for as far as you can see.
Thank you Miguel and your Quechuan brothers and sisters for this magical experience!